Filed under: Eating & Drinking, General | Tags: Artful Leftovers, El Bulli, Ferran Adria, Molecular Gastronomy, Steve Brown
The news of El Bulli’s imminent closure will no doubt disappoint many a gastronome, however, how big an impact has Ferran Adria’s work had on the face of modern gastronomy?
The answer, without any doubt, is a huge impact. We are all now familiar with molecular gastronomy, whether this be through the highly profiled chefs such as Heston Blumenthal or just catching Masterchef. However, how close to the genius of Adria does one have to be to be able to go forth and create new dishes that deliver the same effect? Stagieres of El Bulli are now dotted all over the world, most famously Mr. Redzepi- holder of his former boss’ title ‘Best Restaurant in the World’. However, there are also plenty of 19 year olds trying to make ‘frozen prawn cocktails’ in a pub in Milton Keynes.
I’ve always said that it’s a wee bit like Les Dawson playing the piano; you need to be an incredibly accomplished cook before you can begin to dabble with alginate and the like, otherwise none of it makes sense. ‘Taste, taste, taste’ was the motto of one of my mentors and, a simple motto it may be, taste is clearly the end goal of any chef. Therefore, I hope that young chefs who wish to emulate Adria first pursue a passion for flavour.
The reason this post came about was that, when he heard that El Bulli was losing E500,000 or so a year, my boss asked me whether it was worth it. Surely it has been, given the fact that a) book sales and public appearances allow El Bulli to post solid overall profits and b) even if there had been losses, they are Adria’s and not Spanish banks.
However, with the withdrawal of El Bulli from, firstly, the Worlds Best 50 and then the scene in general- where does molecular gastronomy go from here? Will it replicate fusion, a fad that exploded and then calmed down to a gentle hum or will those that worked at El Bulli go on to take things further and higher?!
Personally, I would like to see more of Noma’s cooking than that of El Bulli- it’s almost a hybrid of the gastro-pub, ingredient-led revolution and the molecular gastronomy that Adria and Blumenthal have championed.
Local, seasonal, tasty food with a splash of craziness thrown in?! Sounds good…
Filed under: Recipes | Tags: Artful Leftovers, chantilly, chocolate, gastronomy, herve this, recipes, Steve Brown, tartine
Right, it would be silly for me to try to emulate the countless wonderful recipe blogs out there… Artful Leftovers was never supposed to be about that. I did, however, promise to share cool things with you all!
I’ll trust that you know what you’re talking about so I won’t go into a huge amount of detail, any questions of comments, just let me know!
Chocolate Mousse (Herve This)
We all know that chocolate and water don’t really mix- because the chocolate tends to seize. Right?!
Chop 225g of good chocolate and pop it into a bowl
Run the hot tap until it’s nice and hot and measure out 200ml
Pour over the chocolate and whisk gently until the two are well combined
Set the bowl over some ice and allow to cool, whisking gently until cool
When cool, begin to whisk the chocolate, either by hand or with an electric whisk
It will begin to form nice soft peaks, just like chocolate mousse- be careful not to overwork
Done! Two ingredients, one delicious chocolate mousse.
Two totally different serving suggestions:
Chocolate & Orange Millefeuille
Press discs of puff pastry and cook for 16 minutes in a moderate oven, until cooked.
Layer with the piped chocolate mousse and finish with a salad of oranges and basil / coriander
Chocolate Toasts
Make some little crostini, preferably with Sourdough.
Pipe on the chocolate mousse
Finish with a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil and a sprinkle of Maldon salt
Tips:
If you over whip the chocolate and it becomes grainy, just melt it and start again
The mousse will keep in the fridge for a couple of hours, after which you can follow the above step- no waste!
Oh, and if you are looking for a tasty recipe/food site- check out Tasty Ribbons
Until next time…
Filed under: Eating & Drinking, General | Tags: Artful Leftovers, Castle Terrace Restaurant, Dominic Jack, Edinburgh Dining, gastronomy, The Kitchin, Tom Kitchin, tony's table
Well, I’ve just woken up and the bread is proving in the warmth of the airing cupboard. It’s half eight in the evening though, so this Saturday seems to be slightly upside down. The reason for my little nap was that Jemma and I enjoyed a rather lovely lunch at Castle Terrace this afternoon, which proved to be a totally unaffordable yet absolutely delicious outing. I always work on Saturdays, so this rare opportunity to go for lunch has been one that we’ve been looking forward to for quite some time!
In keeping with our upside down theme, I’m absolutely sure that I woke up drunk, having enjoyed one too many bourbons last night. However, as the hangover was abated by a large portion of Special K with bananas, the day promptly began…
Castle Terrace is just round the corner from the Edinburgh Farmers Market, through which we strolled to get the tastebuds tingling! For those who haven’t been down, it’s well worth a visit- hosting great, artisan producers such as Falko (bread) and Puddledub (pork)
On to lunch. Castle Terrace was mentioned as a rising star by the latest Michelin guide and is the continuation of Tom Kitchin’s ‘Nature to Plate’ trademark, born in his Michelin-starred restaurant in Leith. Head Chef, Dominic Jack, delivers Tom’s ethos paired with his own vision and a skill set that has been developed during a 10-year stint in Paris, including Arpege and Taillevent. Dominic’s menu had immediate appeal and highlighted the very best of local and seasonal produce.
Amuse was a bright green broccoli veloute with Dunsyre blue, which was slightly salty from the cheese and absolutely delicious. It’s always so comforting to enjoy tried and tested flavour combinations, even if it’s a bit unadventurous!
Our amuse was followed by a little game terrine with pear chutney and black olive. The terrine came ‘en croute’ with the shards of black olive contrasting nicely with the rich, gamey meat and clean, fresh pear.
We had only ordered 2 courses, however, the food kept on coming- thanks to an old friend who runs Castle Terrace, lucky us!
Next was the starter that Jemma had ordered, but we both got. Dressed brown crab, mango mayonnaise, sweet cicely, roasted peppers. The crab was sweet, with its smooth texture broken up by crunchy micro croutons, which were a really nice touch and added another layer of texture to the dish. Lunch was beginning to get going now- I must of enjoyed it as it had been demolished before I even considered taking a photo!
Our crab was followed by the starter that I had originally ordered- ravioli of rabbit in its own consomme. This, out of all the dishes so far, was bang up my alley. Tasty, perfectly seasoned rabbit in a light, flavourful consomme in which swam perfect little brunoise of root vegetables.
I couldn’t wait for my main course, what looked like (and proved to be) a beautiful stuffed saddle of lamb with gnocchi, smoked aubergine puree, basil, olives and shoulder bon bon. All of the food so far stood Jack’s style apart from that of his colleague and friend- this dish more than any other, with the complexity of flavour, texture and technique really shining through.
We both love dessert so much that, even after 5 courses, Jemma went for a simple Creme Brulee and I opted for a rhubarb pavlova with vanilla cream and rosemary jelly (which was beautiful). Although my dessert finished a lovely meal off in style, I felt that it lacked a little ‘je ne sais quoi’ that a great desert so often has. Beautiful none the less though…
Castle Terrace is a welcome addition to Edinburgh’s dining scene and, together with Martin Wishart’s imminent North Castle Street launch (the old Tony’s Table), it’s clear that Edinburgh’s finest chefs feel it’s time to venture into town after establishing themselves in Leith.
I’m eating at Mark Greenaway on Thursday, which I’m really looking forward to. I’ll keep you posted!
In the meantime, Jemma’s bread looks and smells amazing! I’ll post a pic on Twitter when it comes out of the oven…
Isn’t it wonderful when you have a meal that reaffirms your love for food. Ours came this evening when we went to our local bistro, First Coast, in Edinburgh. Dalry Road is not the most salubrious areas of the capital, although this hasn’t stopped First Coast gaining a reputation for great food served in a pretty relaxed environment. The thing is, this formula is as old as the hills- however, when someone gets it right, it’s just the most satisfying thing in the world. No pretence, no expectations, just great food.
This was never supposed to be a critic’s blog, nor a reviewers. It was bloody lovely though, so I’ll tell you what I had… From the off, the desserts were winking at me seductively so I dodged the starters and went straight on to a Mutton & Mussel pudding, which was umptuous, sticky and just kept delivering flavour. It appears this is a bit of a signature for the restaurant- deservedly so.
Jam Roly Poly followed, which was bang on the money… Jemma followed her steak with a rhubarb fool, which didn’t disappoint with its simple, tart finish and rice crispy biscuit.
So… Long live the local bistro! Even if First Coast wasn’t a short stroll away, I’m sure I’d still make the trip.
Filed under: Eating & Drinking, General | Tags: ardeonaig, Artful Leftovers, credit crunch, gastronomy, pickledgreen, tony's table
Well, here we are in February and I can’t stave off a rather despondent feeling on this rain-lashed Monday morning. Given the circumstances, maybe this post is a bit down-hearted, however, I can’t help but wonder what the future really holds for the catering industry as financial toils and troubles continue to worry restauranteurs.
When the crunch first became big news, there was a clear knee-jerk reaction by the general public, which in turn forced ridiculously unsustainable offers by many operators. Although I am always upset to notice any closure, the immediate effects of the credit crunch actually served to cleanse the landscape a little, getting rid of those operators who, some might say, didn’t have the skill or experience to run a successful outlet in the first place. This may seem harsh, however, we might all do well to remember a meal after the boom of the late ’90′s that left us wondering what the hell some people were thinking of going into business with no qualifications other than a fleeting interest in food and a desire to make some quick cash.
After the initial financial pressure had been weathered, grassroots recovery was forecast, albeit tentatively. During this time, we noted a decrease in ludicrous offers and a move toward a little more stability. However, as the coalition’s cuts (don’t worry folks- I’m not a political analyst) begin to take their toll, it must be increasingly difficult for restauranteurs to see a path forward.
As the death toll rises, we see fine establishments such as Ardeonaig (Perthshire), Tony’s Table (Edinburgh) and pickledgreen (Edinburgh) amongst the many that have been simply unable to continue trading in this tough climate. I am also personally aware of other tremendously established restaurants that face serious pressure in the coming weeks. Those who are surviving are doing so at an average of 20% less than they were 3 years ago (which, in terms of Scotland as a whole, represents a loss of over £350m over the year)
As thoughts of Spring dare to creep into our minds, the food industry as a whole seems quite positive… C4′s Big Fish Fight gains supporters and promotes sustainability massively during January, top class chefs such as Jason Atherton consider this as good a time as any to launch a new venture and a second Michelin star for a deserving team at The Black Pig all vie for attention.
But what will 2011 and beyond hold for the industry in general? Will consumers ever pay the pre-crunch prices that allowed restauranteurs to consider a second venture or to provide a solid and secure living for their staff? Will we see a resurgence in fantastic British ingredients cooked with real flair and panache without them having to come at a cost-prohibitive price-tag for diners? As an unrequited lover of the hospitality industry, I certainly hope so… Especially at a time when the UK is really putting itself of the map for excellence in all things culinary.
Artful Leftovers would really appreciate your views on this issue… What changes have you noticed- positive or negative? Which direction do you see things going from here?
Until next time…
Filed under: Art & Science | Tags: Artful Leftovers, gastronomy, John Campbell, Steve Brown, stockcross, teaching, vineyard
At ESFW, we teach to a broad range of people, anything from corporate jollies to the 6-month Diploma course, which has just begun. It really is the most rewarding feeling in the world to welcome somebody into the kitchen and watch them learn, grow and develop before your very eyes.
How much can we really teach though? Obviously our place is to give our students the tools and the knowledge to go on and pursue success in their chosen field but can you teach somebody that certain je ne sais quoi that so many of our modern masterchefs have?
When working, albeit briefly, with John Campbell at The Vineyard at Stockcross, I was astounded by his clear vision of what he was trying to achieve with his food. Classical combinations were juxtaposed with ultra-modern culinary techniques to stunning effect.
So at what age did John flourish and where did his inspiration come from: within or from his peers? John openly admits that he has never worked with any Michelin starred chefs, therefore ruling out any influences there. However this article shows that it was John’s desire for an understanding of how things work that have lead him to success.
At the school, we actively encourage students to challenge and question techniques and recipes, believing that none of us will be able to move forward if we simply recreate the repertoire over and over. Surely a clear understanding of how things work is the only way to break apart age-old recipes and overhaul them to create something truly special?
In my own cooking, I sometimes think that I don’t question enough. The ways that I have been taught have served me well and, although I am constantly looking to move on and create great flavour, from time to time I see young guys moving at such a pace and with such determination that I wonder if I’m missing something?
Although pushing yourself way outside your comfort zone results in a dip in confidence, does the journey to regaining that confidence make it all worth it?
Can you teach ethics, attitude and passion? Surely not. However, if you can inspire somebody and give them the stories, facts and information to light a fire in their belly, you can’t be going far wrong can you?!
Filed under: General | Tags: Artful Leftovers, Edinburgh School of Food and Wine, ESFW, Savoy Hotel, Steve Brown, Welcome
It’s taken quite some pondering and consideration before finally starting this blog. Even though it’s up now, I’m not sure I know in which direction I really want to go with it! However, Artful Leftovers is in being so we really should just get started…
In 1998, I was working as a (very young) waiter at the Jarvis Ellersly House Hotel in Edinburgh when the Head Chef walked out in the middle of service, with relative panic ensuing. The chefs asked for a pair of hands, which I was delighted to provide- anything to get out of that little blue waistcoat!
Since that first experience of a hot, sweaty, foul-mouthed kitchen… I was hooked.
After a couple of months in the kitchen, I had grown tired of messy chefs and microwave cooking and distinctly remember coming in one day and pulling all the fridges out, swearing under my breath about dirty boys and bad practice. Fortunately, an agency chef was working away at the same time and was clearly taken aback by my rather rampaging manner- given the fact that I was just 16! He was Lawrence Robertson, ex-Sous Chef at both The Savoy and The Dorchester, in London. Turns out he was opening a restaurant in Edinburgh and was just making some fast cash until the property became available. I agreed to join him on a part-time basis, since I was still at school.
Randolphs opened a few weeks later with a nice menu and a tiny sweatbox of a kitchen. Lawrence and Laurent ran the kitchen and I took the bollockings, learning loads at the same time. After a while, Lawrence took my aside and asked if this was what I really wanted to do with my life- no brainer. I was told that London was the only place to be (which was probably a decent call at the time) so I was duly dispatched to The Savoy to work under Anton Edelmann.
I’m not going to bang on about everywhere I’ve been since then, because I don’t want to bore anybody reading this. However, since then I’ve spent time in France, Germany, Edinburgh and worked as a stagiere at places like The River Café, Moro, Gordon Ramsay and L’Escargot.
All of this has lead me back home to Edinburgh, where I teach at The Edinburgh School of Food and Wine (ESFW). I’m engaged to the most beautiful person I’ve ever met and I love going to work as much as I love being at home. Over the next few weeks, months and years, I’m going to post stuff about food- whether it’s places we eat of cool stuff that I read or discover through reading and working. It would be silly to have too much direction with Artful Leftovers- I guess we should just see how it goes. The most valuable direction comes from you, so please feel totally welcome to comment until your heart’s content…
Until then, enjoy Artful Leftovers!
